Kigigak Island, AK

May 29- Departure to Kigigak

We received the OK from the pilot for Nate and I to depart for Kigigak at 1PM. Those in the bunkhouse were asking if I was excited, my response was "yes, but I wont be fully pumped until I'm in the air". In Alaska anything can happen that would delay a flight: weather, maintenance etc. After all we were supposed to leave the day before but the flight did not happen, so I was not holding my breath for the next days departure. However, the plane ended up coming to Bethel and Nate and I were ready at the river front to load up. We loaded quickly and left Bethel by taking off from the Kuskokwim River. Our next stop-Kigigak Island, AK. After an hour plane ride over a landscape riddled with ponds, sloughs and pockets of water, we finally saw Kigigak (pic. 1). I could see our pile of gear beneath waiting for us, we circle the landing spot 3 times to hear the pilot say "this landing at low tide isn't really jazzing up my afternoon boys". The pilot ended up taking us to a cabin just North of Kigigak to stay the night, awaiting the proper tide. We stayed at this site for 2 days waiting to arrive at Kigigak (pic. 2). At this cabin we quickly noticed a bare pantry (luckily there was another crew already there who could feed us), our food was at Kigigak (pic. 3). We also noticed some Ravens had made a nest on the fuel tank, which made for an entertaining and loud evening (pic. 4). Finally on the 31st we had the tide figured out and were able to land on Kigigak. Our next step was to hike into our camp site and get camp set-up.

Picture 1- Landscape flying to Kigigak Island, AK.

Picture 2- Cabin we stayed in for 2 days awaiting Kigigak.

Picture 3- Pantry was bare, although we did find some hot chocolate from last year that was still good. 

Picture 4- Raven nest on fuel tank.

May 31- Arriving to Camp

Nate and I were the first to land at Kigigak, we unloaded the plane and grabbed as much gear as we could. I put a gear pack on my back, pack on my front and 2 gear cases in my hands. The gear pile appeared a lot closer than it was. Not far into the trek I ended up leaving the gear cases in each hand behind. The two gear packs was more than enough for me to haul in. We hiked just over 1.25 miles on soft tundra, mud, muck and water. Not to mention dodging the occasional nest along the route. I was physically exhausted once we arrived at our gear pile. Sweat was pouring down my face, I remember thinking-"it's 40 degrees out and I'm sweating!?". The rest of our crew was arriving shortly so we grabbed the gear sleds and walked back to the landing spot for another gear run. Once we arrived at the landing spot we were met by the rest of our crew. We loaded the sleds up with more gear: water jugs, propane tanks, food boxes and other equipment. Each sled easily weighed 100lbs, and I thought the packs were bad! I was soon in for a real surprise, the sleds were an absolute drag! The weight of the sled dug into the soft ground making each step a fight. I soon hated these gear runs and can now relate to how a pack mule feels. After one more gear run we finally began erecting our camp site (pic. 5). Everything that day was difficult, we were exhausted from the gear runs and cold. The sweat soaked clothes wicked the heat from our bodies making things extremely uncomfortable. After a few hours of work and a few swear words camp was finally up and operational. Except for our toilet (behind the white weatherport). We could not find the toilet tent so the "throne" was placed behind the weather-port for privacy (pic. 6). However, it was quite refreshing to see mountains and waterfowl while using the bathroom. Now that camp was set-up we could finally begin our research.

Picture 5- Our camp after a few hours of work.

Picture 6- The "throne", it actually was quite comfortable. 

Research Underway

Our research on Kigigak was focused primarily on the spectacled eider (threatened species). The spectacled eider was placed on the threatened species list in the early 90's. Researchers knew little about this species and wanted to know more. Researchers were curious as to where this bird winters and numerous theories were made. In 1995 biologists discovered that spectacled eiders winter in the Bering Sea in big groups. This was accomplished by placing satellite transmitters within the ducks. Now researchers want to know even more about this beautiful sea duck in order to preserve its habitat and increase its population, that is where our research comes into play. 

We are retrieving data regarding average life expectancy and nesting success. This data is accomplished by nest searching, actively walking predetermined plots seeking out spectacled eiders (pic. 7). Once an eider is found we quickly determine if that eider was banded or not once the bird flushes from their nest. A nest card was used to record the number of eggs at each nest, the age of the eggs and the band # of the bird (if you could read it). Eggs were aged by two methods, candling and floating. The candling method was preferred over floating due to higher accuracy.  

If the eider was not banded we would then set a bowtrap at her nest and await her return (pic. 8). Upon the eiders return to the nest the bowtrap would be released and (hopefully) the bird would be caught. The bird would then be safely extracted from the net, banded and measured (pic. 9 and 10). The bands allow for accurate re-sighting, allowing researchers to calculate life expectancy and survival. After the completion of nest searching and trapping/banding, the nests were revisited to determine the fate of each nest. This data allows researchers to understand the success of the eider nesting season. 

Picture 7- Spectacled eiders

Picture 8- Nate setting a bowtrap on an eider nest.

Picture 9- Me extracting an eider safely from the net.

Picture 10- My first eider being banded and ready for release.

Camp Life

Camp life was fairly primitive, we had some amenities such as stove, propane heater, good food and a cots. Yet, camp its-self was still not your average days life. We washed our clothes in a Rubbermaid tote filled with heated pond water. Heated pond water was also what we used to clean our dishes everyday. Our showers were highly limited and consisted of heating pond water, as you can see pond water was used a lot! We prayed for rain the first few weeks so our gutter system would funnel water into a trash can. We would then utilize this water for drinking and cooking after filtering. We were very thankful for the one rain storm we received or we would have had to haul 55lb water jugs to camp from the landing spot (not fun). Overall camp life was fun and easy going, we enjoyed good dinners and played cards most nights. Hearts, blackball, rummy, canasta and 500 were the card games of choice most nights. However, hearts became too competitive after awhile and most of us couldn't stand the anxiety any longer. Below are an assortment of camp life pictures. 

Doing dishes in hot pond water.

The inside of my tent lined with dirty clothes.

One of the few nice, warm days were spent lounging in the sun. It felt good to use the gear sled as a foot stool, instead of pulling it full of gear.

A view inside the weather-port 

Our summer solstice night

Summer solstice-the longest day of the year. The official sunset was at 12:37AM.

Other Research Performed

Other data collected was elevation and water quality. Water quality data was extracted from numerous ponds and sloughs through a HOBO data logger (pic. 12). We retrieved these loggers and downloaded the information so the loggers could be reset in new locations. The data loggers recorded water temperature, water pressure (tides) and conductivity. The elevation data was retrieved using a rotary laser (pic. 11) and direct read elevation rod. This elevation data will be tied in with water quality data to establish a better understanding of the habitat within the research area. 

Picture 11- Rotary Laser

Picture 12- HOBO data logger waiting to be retrieved

Last Thoughts

Overall the first field research expedition was successful. Living over a month in the Alaskan wilderness was an experience worth every drop of sweat. I am excited about the upcoming field projects and can't wait to be back in the field. The break in Bethel in between field excursions is nice. The showers, kitchen and real toilet and bed are perks worth having. Although I highly enjoy this way of life.  I also can not wait to be back in Delaware with my fiance'. That time will come soon enough, for now I am in Alaska enjoying every minute of it. July 18th is the day we plan to depart for Kigigak once again for duckling capture. Stay tuned for more blog updates on field projects and life in Alaska. 

Last Day of Civilization

Today is my last day of civilization for over a month.  Our crew leader Nate and me will be the first ones to depart for the field today.  We will be responsible for setting up the weather port station, hauling gear, and getting camp set-up.  The rest of the crew will depart later today or tomorrow and our research will then be under way.  The birds have already started nesting over the weeks, so we will have to hit the ground running searching for nests!  After you read this post you will not hear back from me until after July 4th.  Nothing like spending independence day in the field with no grill!  However, we did buy steaks!!

Life In Bethel, AK

I have been in Bethel, AK for 3 days now and have experienced a little of what Alaska life is like.  The bunkhouse (Fig. 1) we are staging at is now packed full since another bird group came into town yesterday.  We are all waiting on the weather and tides to be just right so the pilots can take us to our field sites. As we are playing the waiting game to be dropped in the field I have been exposed to the culture of Bethel.  Life here is far different than anything I have experienced.  In the lower 48 we are used to pampered lawns and gardens, clean shiny cars in driveways and reasonable prices at the grocery store.  Here in Bethel, AK those things are not to be found, the presence of trucks overwhelm cars, and dust coats them from top to bottom.  Lawns are non existent and are replaced with tundra and grocery store prices are overwhelming considering everything has to be shipped in.

Figure 1- Refuge visitor center, offices and bunkhouse.

Our crew had to go to the grocery store to pick up misc food items, and I was completely shocked at the prices!  Good thing the food bill went on a US Fish and Wildlife credit card or our crew would be forced to sell our gear to afford the grocery bill (Fig. 2).  The other thing that is different about here compared to home is how the sewer lines are above ground, not below (Fig. 3).  Due to the permafrost (frozen soil under ground), they can't penetrate beneath the surface for pipes, it's very different to see big pipes connecting all the houses and businesses.  

Figure 2- Price of potatoes in Bethel, AK.

Figure 3- sewage pipes in Bethel, AK.

Hopefully today will be our last day in the bunkhouse, it's nice to have amenities and a bathroom, but when they're being shared by 12 other people it can get quite absurd.  I am ready for the field life and am eager to board the float plane (Fig. 4) and venture out into the Alaskan wilderness.  Hopefully the weather cooperates tomorrow and we can head out to our field site, get camp set-up and begin our field research. 

Figure 4- An example of a float plane we will be using to reach our research site.

Until then we are hunkered in the bunkhouse and doing last minute preparations, watching lot's of TV, surfing the web, and soaking in our last moments of civilization!  Once we depart we will not see civilization for over a month. 

Departure Day to Bethel, AK

I have now made it to Bethel, AK. After four flights, going from one extreme of North America to the other.  It was a long day of travel to be rewarded in the end with sunlight after 830pm.  The travel experience was how should I say...interesting.  I witnessed  a change in people on each flight, as I got closer to Alaska it seems the plane was filled with more outdoor enthusiasts than before.  Once I stepped onto Alaska Airlines, I knew I was on my way to the last frontier.

Upon arriving in Anchorage I was surprised and greeted with a bar, at this bar you could purchase your own growlers and have them filled with your choice of brew.  I decided I better get two of these since Bethel is a "damp" village (you can brig it in, but you can't buy it).  I then decided to head to my last gate and ran into my boss Kyle for this summer research!

Growler you can purchase in airport and fly with!

Kyle and I began to board our last flight into Bethel, AK by scanning our tickets at the gate like any other flight.  Then we began walking down a stairway and onto the tarmac.  It hit me then that we were flying into no-mans land.  We boarded a plane that was filled half way with cargo and half with passengers, it was an interesting set-up.  I noticed how this flight changed, the last flight was filled with outdoor enthusiast and now this flight seems to be filled with ALL locals.  Locals who were sweating constantly in the semi-warm plane.  I guess when you're used to living in below freezing temps, 50 degrees is pretty hot!

We landed in Bethel, AK and were greeted by our other group members.  I waited at the baggage claim which was really just a conference hall with a conveyor belt.  I quickly noticed the items on the belt were not normal travel items!  Big Rubbermaid totes, coolers duck taped closed and a variety of other boxes.  These were locals literally flying into town to go to Wal-Mart and the such, and the coolers were certainly people like me flying in their favorite brew.

I then arrived at our bunkhouse where we talked and shot the crap.  I was introduced to Elk tongue and had to try it!  It was surprisingly good actually, but a little chewy. Around 9pm since the sun was still up I decided to take a stroll around to soak in Alaska, of course I took my binoculars and camera in case some awesome wildlife crossed my path. The first bird sighting was a Robin, whoopee! We have those back home.  Then two Fox Sparrows crossed my path.  This is just the beginning of this adventure, only day 1, many more to come.  The sun didn't begin to set until after 1130pm and began to rise around 5am, out of everything in Alaska I think this will be the hardest thing to get used to. 

Fox Sparrow-Gerrit Vyn

Test Post

Just seeing if those who put their email address in to follow my Alaska blog are receiving updates regarding posts.

Departure Time is Near

May 25th is my tentative departure date.  The date in which I have been waiting for, for years.  Soon I will be waking up to the sounds of waterfowl and birds instead of a barking hungry dog.  It is almost surreal that this trip is happening!  I haven't even begun to pack for this wilderness I am about to enter.  I just received an email from the biologist saying that the travel arrangements are being made and that 2 airplanes and 1 helicopter have dropped off over 2300 pounds of gear for our crew at Kigigak Island, AK (Figure 1).

Figure 1- Displaying the gear waiting for us (C. Moore, 2014).

Soon I will be unplugged from society and all its distractions, and will only be surrounded by the true beauty of this world we have been given.  It will be a life filled with waterfowl, shorebirds, songbirds and many other flying critters (bugs!).  However, it will be all worth it and I will enjoyed it to the fullest.  This is a once in a lifetime experience I am blessed with and I can't wait to get started.  

Follow my journey by inputting your email in the bar provided above.  You can see what life is like in the field, see the field projects we are working on, follow bird sightings, and see what the Alaskan Yukon-Delta wilderness is like.  I won't update the blog very often once we are deployed.  Internet will be non-existent for us and communication to loved ones back home will consist of 15-min sat phone conversations.  But when I do blog it will be worth it to see what is happening and how we are all progressing.  

A few more weeks left and off to Alaska I go! (Figure 2)

Figure 2- Displays where I will be in Alaska.

Thoughts on Alaska

As I sit in a quiet house sipping my home made beer, I can't help but ponder....hmm, I wonder what field work in Alaska will be like?  I finally have landed a job of my dreams.  A job performing research in the wilderness.  Now that this experience is real and approaching, so many questions arise.  How cold will it get at night?  How will I sleep with the sun still up?  How many different bird species will I see?  Will I be able to readily identify them!? How many field projects will a screw up?  Will this experience lead into a full-time job?  How will my fiance' and I handle this distance with limited communication?  There's so many questions, with the answers only to come at a later date.  There's no telling where this experience will lead Emily and me, we just have to keep the faith and in the end the hard work will pay off.  After all, once all the questions I had before have answers, a new slew of questions will take there place.

I am excited about where this opportunity leads and the questions that are proceeding.  As this adventure draws closer, the reality draws near.  As I update this blog throughout the summer I am sure many of questions will be answered and many new questions will be asked.  Please feel free to join me on this adventure to Alaska and follow my blog for all the questions, answers and comical relief regarding my adventures researching waterfowl ecology/behavior on the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta, Alaska.